NORTHERN LIGHTS TOUR

A further ecumenical tour exploring the art, history and monasteries of St Petersburg, Sweden and Denmark took place from 20 September to 8 October 2006. It was accompanied by Abbot Michael King OSB (Anglican Benedictines, Camperdown Vic) and Fr Michael Kelly OSB (Arcadia) and organised by Westminister Tours, Sydney.

St Petersburg was founded by Peter the Great in1703 and embellished by him, Elizabeth (1741-61) and Catherine the Great (1762-98) with outstanding Baroque and Neo-Classical buildings. The first visit was to the Hermitage museum, housed partly in Bartolomeo Rastrelli's Winter Palace, containing one of the world's greatest art collections. This was followed by the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral, designed by Domenico Trezzini in 1712, with a 122m spire. It was being prepared for the reburial of  the mother of the last tsar, Nicholas II. Catherine was represented by a visit to her palace at Tsarkoe Selo, including the recently restored Amber Room. In the afternoon there was a canal cruise, exploring some of the many waterways on which the city is built. The final palace on the itinerary was Peterhof, overlooking the Baltic and notable for its Grand Cascade. Meanwhile, some members availed of the opera and ballet in the major theatres. A leisure day was devoted by most to visiting the major churches, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan (1801-1811), once again dedicated to religious use; St Isaac's Cathedral, designed in 1818 and boasting a massive gilded dome; the Church on Spilled Blood, built - in Russian Revival style - on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was assassinated in 1881. Also of interest along Nevskiy Prospekt, the main artery of the city, are St Catherine's (1762-82) - the oldest Catholic church in Russia, and the Lutheran church (1833), now restored to worship after being converted to a swimming pool during the Soviet era. A couple of brave souls managed a fleeting visit to the wonderful icon collection in the Russian Museum. The final morning was dedicated to the Alexander Nevsky Lavra, or monastery, founded by Peter the Great in 1710. It was possible to attend part of the liturgy and visit the cemetery where leading figures such as Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Rimsky-Korsakov and Dostoevsky are buried.

From left (click to view): Peter & Paul Fortress/ Cupola, Hermitage Square, Catherine Palace, Peterhof, Church on Spilled Blood, St Isaac (2)

Peterhof

A flight to Stockholm was followed by a coach tour of the city and then a leisure day equipped with a 'Stockholm card' that enabled visits to major churches, museums and a canal cruise which gave a good idea of this island city. Of particular interest was the Vasa Museum in which is preserved the warship of that name, sunk on its maiden voyage in 1628 and salvaged in1961. Then began the trip from Stockholm to Copenhagen and the first of our Scandinavian monastic visits. This was the Lutheran Benedictine community at Östanbäcks Monastery, founded in 1970 by a group originating in the 1960s. We were warmly welcomed and joined the monks for liturgy and the midday meal. Continuing on we came to Vreta and the very interesting church, the only remnant of the former monastery. The local Pastor kindly opened the church and gave generously of his time. A women's community was founded here by King Inge and Queen Helena in the early 12th century and probably followed the Benedictine Rule. In 1164 it was given to the Cistercians and the church is typically Cistercian in its simplicity and beauty. It still boasts a crucifix and choir stalls from the 13th century.

At Vadstena we celebrated Eucharist in the chapel of the Bridgettine Sisters who returned here in 1973. Interestingly, we were lodged in their pre-Reformation convent, now a hotel. The original church, begun in the 1360s, still dominates the town. It was here St Bridget (1303-73), Sweden's patron saint, began her order which was given papal approval in 1370. From there we visited Heliga Hjärtas Kloster, the monastery of the Benedictine nuns a dozen kilometres to the South. This is one of two communities, formerly Lutheran, that joined the Catholic Church and adopted the Rule of Benedict in 1989. Again, there was a warm welcome, an explanation of their background and way of life and then Midday Prayer. A short distance away are the ruins of the first Cistercian monastery, Alvastra, founded in 1143. During a lengthy journey the next day there was a stop at the former Cistercian monastery of Nydala, also founded in 1143. The truncated church, the only remaining building, is still used for worship. In the afternoon there was also a stop at Bosjökloster, the first Benedictine community for women in what was then Denmark. The refectory and a small section of the monastery remain, but the rest has been completely rebuilt. In Lund the morning was spent at the Cathedral and St Thomas' Catholic Church and the afternoon at a reconstructed Viking Village. There appear to have been monasteries attached to the cathedral, at Our Lady and St Peter's, and at All Saints.

Östanbäck, Vreta Stalls, Vadstena:Brigettines/Benedictines,Alvastra(2)

Vreta

Nydala, Bosjökloster, Lund: Catholic Church, Cathedral, Our Lady & St Peter; Viking Village

Abbey Church Vadstena

A short ferry trip brought the group from Sweden to Denmark and, after stopping briefly at Kronborg castle (Elsinore), we proceeded for a more extended visit to Frederiksborg Castle. The following day there was a tour of the city followed by a canal cruise, thus viewing the three key cities of the tour from a perspective held in common. The next excursion was to Odense, visiting en route the last of the monasteries to be closed at the Reformation, St Benedict's at Ringsted. The original Benedictine church was built around 1080 and the present one in 1170, the first brick church in the country. It is also the first Royal church in Denmark and the burial place of many of the kings and queens. The beginnings of this date to miracles reported at the tomb of Duke Knud Lavard, murdered by his cousin in 1131. The church is adorned with fine 14th century frescoes and retains the 14th century choir stalls. It is the burial place of Queen Dagmar (died 1212), known for the Dagmar Cross, a Byzantine work from the year 1000, found in her tomb and now in the National Museum in Copenhagen. A shorter stop was made at the church of Sorø monastery, unfortunately closed owing to construction work. Originally, it was Benedictine, dating to the 1140s, but in 1161 Absalon, bishop of Roskilde and founder of Copenhagen, introduced the Cistercians. The present church is late 12th century. It was then on to the H. C. Andersen museum at Odense. Also visited here was St Knud's Church. This originated with another royal murder, that of King Knud in 1086 who was canonised in 1100 and thus became the first Danish saint. Benedictine monks came from Evesham in England and were established in the monastery that came to bear the saint's name. The church was converted to brick and extended in the late 13th century. It has a magnificent altarpiece by Claus Berg carved in the 1520s.

St Knud altarpiece

Kronborg, Frederiksborg, Ringsted choir detail & graffiti, Sorø

Ringsted

The final organised day on the itinerary was to Roskilde and Esrum. Roskilde Cathedral was added to UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1995. The first church on the site was built in the 10th century by Harald Bluetooth in wood. This was replaced by travertine buildings in the 11th century and in the 1170s Bishop Absalon began a Romanesque brick church. This was completed around 1280 with Gothic influence. Since the Reformation it has been the royal burial place. The 16th century golden altarpiece is from Antwerp. Roskilde was also home to a community of Benedictine and, subsequently, Cistercian nuns. The Church of Our Lady on this site dates from the 11th century but, unfortunately, was not open. Here, too, is the Viking Ship Museum that houses the wrecks of five Viking ships discovered in 1962 and subsequently salvaged. In the afternoon we went to Esrum Abbey, originally Benedictine and then Cistercian. Professor Brian McGuire of Roskilde University kindly gave time to introduce the site. Only the South wing of the abbey remains, much of the material from the demolished buildings being used for the construction of Kronborg Castle. In the National Museum there is preserved the altarpiece in which the garb of the last abbot has been changed from that of a monk to that of a Protestant clergyman. The museum also holds  the 12th century Horne Gospel Book from the Cistercian nuns at Slangerup, not far from Esrum. The final leisure day was dedicated to museums and sightseeing in Copenhagen.

Roskilde altarpiece, Viking museum, Our Lady Church, Esrum, Horne Gospel Book

Esrum altarpiece

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Monasticism in Scandinavia.

All religious houses were closed at the Reformation. Originally there were a few communities of Benedictine men and women in Norway and Sweden and around a dozen men's and slightly more women's in Denmark. With the coming of the Cistercians some of these were taken over. There were three Cistercian communities of men and one of women in Norway; six men's and seven women's in Sweden and eleven men's and two women's in Denmark.

Since the mid-twentieth century there have been established two communities of Benedictine women in Sweden and two in Denmark. There is also the Lutheran men's community in Sweden. There is one community of Cistercian women in Norway and one of men in Denmark (both Trappist) and a Cistercian community of women in Denmark and one of men projected for Sweden.

References:

France, James. The Cistercians in Scandinavia, Kalamazoo, Mich: Cistercian Publications, 1992.

McGurie, Brian Patrick. The Cistercians in Denmark, Kalamazoo, Mich: Cistercian Publications, 1982.

Nyberg, Tore. Monasticism in North-Western Europe, 800-1200, Aldershot, Hants: Ashgate, 2000.

Michael Kelly OSB