ECUMENICAL BENEDICTINE TOUR - REPORT
This was hosted by Fr Michael King OSB of the Anglican Benedictine Monastery at Camperdown in Victoria and Fr Michael Kelly OSB (Arcadia). It visited monasteries and cathedrals in France and Italy from 17 September to 9 October.
The tour included pre-Benedictine Western figures such as Casssian, Martin of Tours and Honoratus plus the Cistercian reforms and other monastic forms such as Fontevraud. Several of the abbeys have belonged to more than one monastic tradition or different reform movements within the Benedictinism. The route sought to maximise exposure to a variety of monastic life within the limitations of time and distance.
FRANCE
In Paris many of the group experienced at St Gervais the evening liturgy of the Community of Jerusalem. This new monastic community was founded in 1975 as an urban group, anchored in the local church. Members do not live strict enclosure but in rented dwellings and work part time to earn their living.
Normandy
The first stop (after Rouen Cathedral) was Jumieges, founded under Celtic influence in 654. It was destroyed and restored several times, became part of the 17th century Maurist reform until plundered in the French Revolution and left in ruins.
Not far from Jumieges is the Abbey of St Wandrille, also founded under Celtic influence in 649. It became Benedictine, was destroyed by the Normans and Huguenots, reformed by the Maurists and suppressed in the French Revolution. It was finally restored as a Benedictine community in 1931.
At Caen the Abbeys of St Etienne(Abbaye aux Hommes) and La Trinite(Abbaye aux Dames) were built by William the Conqueror and his wife Matilda in 1066. The former is now the Town Hall; the church contains the tomb of William.
Finally, the impressive Mont St Michel, founded in 708, Benedictine from 966, it was heavily fortified, became a prison after the Revolution and now has religious from the Community of Jerusalem.
Jumieges Abbaye aux Hommes Mont St Michel
Western Loire and Val de Loire
Passing into the Loire area we stopped at Solesmes, joining the community for Evening Prayer. The abbey was founded in 1010 and re-established in 1833 by Dom Gueranger. It became known for its part in liturgical revival and particularly for its Gregorian Chant, which tradition it maintains today. The following day took us to the Abbey of Fontevraud, founded in 1101 as a joint monastery of women and men. Under the Plantagenets it became a royal necropolis; recumbent effigies of Richard the Lionheart and his parents Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitane are still to be found in the nave of the church. It is also noted for the architecture of the extant 12th century kitchens. At Tours is found the tomb of Martin(316-97) bishop of the city and monastic founder (Liguge 363 and Marmoutier 372). It is now housed in a 19th century basilica, the original having been almost completely destroyed. The Chateau of Chenonceau and Cathedral of Bourges were two further sites admired in this area.
Fontevraud Kitchen Basilica of St Martin Bourges
Burgundy
In this region of great monastic activity the first stop was La Charite sur Loire. The monastery was established by Cluny in the 11th century and played a major part in the Cluniac reform. At one time the church was the second largest in Christendom. Six bays of the nave have since been destroyed; restoration is currently underway to improve the environs. One of the architectural attractions of the tour was the basilica at Vezelay. A monastery for nuns was founded here in 858; destroyed by the Normans it was then given to monks and the relics of Mary Magdalene brought. It was reformed in the 11th century, but the abbot assassinated at the beginning of the 12th. The present church was built later the same century after a fire. Here Bernard preached the second crusade and Becket excommunicated Henry II. In the 16th century it was given to Canons Regular and then sacked by the Huguenots. In 1790 the abbey was destroyed and the church became the parish church. The Community of Jerusalem is now established there.
One of the gems of the trip was the Abbey of Fontenay. Founded in 1119, it was one of the earliest houses of the Cistercian reform. From the Revolution till the beginning of the 20th century it was used as a paper mill but has now been restored to its original simplicity, typical of Cistercian architecture. The Abbey of St Benigne, Dijon is on a 6th century site and the crypt retains the lower level of a romanesque rotunda built in 1001. The 13th century gothic church became the cathedral after the Revolution. Citeaux was the original Cistercian foundation in 1098 and is now the head house of the strict observance. The original buildings have been destroyed but there is a fine modern monastic church. Here we were able to join in the Hour of Terce with the community. Another more recent monastic venture is Taize which attracts large numbers of youth in the summer. We arrived in time to share in the midday prayer. The next stop was Cluny, founded in 909 by William of Aquitaine. The church was the largest in christendom, but was destroyed except for one tower. Still it is possible to appreciate the splendour which marked the Cluniac reform.
La Charite Vezelay Fontenay Citeaux Cluny
Provence
After visiting Avignon and Arles we arrived at the Abbey of Montmajour. This was founded in 948 and the church built in the 12th century. It was fortified after the Hundred Years War and reformed by the Maurists in 1639, only to be sold in 1791. A site of great interest from the point of view of monastic origins is the Abbey of St Victor at Marseille. This is where, in the 5th century, John Cassian made his foundation after collecting the teaching of the desert elders in Egypt. There is still in the crypt a chapel dating to this period with the relics of Cassian and interesting sarcophagi. The present church was rebuilt in the 13th century and later fortified.
Montmajour St Victor crypt St Victor Cassian icon
Cote d'Azur
The final French monastery is an unusual position - one of the islands of Lerins off the Riviera. Honoratus (c350-429) established here one of the earliest communities which came to number many famous figures. It was fortified against the Saracens, sold at the time of the Revolution and re-established by the Cistercians in the 19th century - a delightful and restful place. Here, too, we could join in the Eucharist and midday prayer.
Lerins
ITALY
Having flown from Nice to Rome we went by coach to Montefano, mother house of the Sylvestrine Congregation OSB to which Arcadia belongs. A warm welcome was given at the monastery established by the founder, Sylvester Guzzolini(1177-1267) in 1231. The archive still contains documents from the foundation period, despite the vicissitudes of history. From here we visited the nearby town of Fabriano, famous for paper making and the Camaldolese monastery of
Fonte Avellana. This has an outstanding 10th century scriptorium, designed to allow the maximum light for copying manuscripts. After a visit to Assisi we proceeded South to Subiaco where Benedict retired as a hermit and then began to receive disciples. The monastery of St Benedict, or Sacro Speco, was built over the cave where Benedict dwelt and, despite its rich frescoes and complexity, retains an aura of simplicity. There was also a visit to the monastery of St Scholastica, named after the sister of Benedict, with its various cloisters. Continuing South we came to Montecassino, founded by St Benedict c529 and subject to many vicissitudes over the centuries, including destruction during World War II. Rebuilt after the war, its monumental proportions and artistic heritage can again be appreciated. Following a tour of the building the group joined the monks for Vespers.
Montefano
Fonte Avellana Subiaco Montecassino
After visiting Capri and Pompeii, the final destination was Rome. During the stay here, after visiting the Anglican Centre in the Palazzo Doria, we were treated to lunch at the nearby S. Stefano del Cacco, residence of the Abbot General of the Sylvestrine Congregation.
An interesting reflection from this experience for our own difficult times was how many of these monasteries had flourished, been destroyed or declined, then had been rebuilt or reformed, often over and again.
(Organised by Canterbury Tours: Sydney (02)9232 1711; Brisbane (07)3341 1741)
